SPRING
The Shimanami Kaido Journey Part 2: Bridges, Coastlines, and Cozy Cafés
Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge and Shimanami Kaido cycling course, 2022
If you’re visiting Japan in winter and you’re keen to do some cycling, the Shimanami Kaido can’t be beat as far as cycling routes go. Plus there’s the added bonus of avoiding spring and autumn crowds while still having decent weather for enjoying your ride… so long as you’re prepared!
The weather is generally more stable here in winter (outside of typhoon season) and the temperatures are far less deadly: between 8-12oC. The humidity is much lower as well. But be prepared for occasional rain and strong wind on your ride: at least one thermal undershirt, a long-sleeved jersey with a hood to be worn under your helmet, a windbreaker (and possibly a second jacket) plus insulated cycling tights, warm socks, and shoe covers. If you carry a small backpack with your usual long-distance cycling supplies, then you won’t have a problem storing any layers you feel the need to shed. (It’s always easier to remove layers than to be miserably cold for hours on end.)
Other things to remember: chapstick and sunblock, sunglasses, a hand towel (for stuffing down the front of your jersey for added insulation, arm covers, a poncho (for waiting out bouts of rain), and full-finger cycling gloves, both insulated ones (designed temperatures of 0-10oC) for headwind and overcast skies, and regular full-finger gloves (designed for temperatures of 8-15oC) for tailwind and sunny conditions.
If you fear your gear isn’t up to the challenge, don’t despair! The brand name bicycle store Giant LIV in Onomichi rents bicycle wear, including gloves, and its sister store at Imabari Station might as well.
Once you get all your gear sorted, it’s time to ride! If you’re only visiting the area for a day and you want a scenic ride to enjoy (rather than to conquer), here’s one route that I personally like: Imabari City to Oshima.
Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge and Shimanami Kaido cycling course, 2024
Southern Course: Imabari City to Oshima (O Island)
Distance: 50 km
Duration: 5 hours (includes a short lunch or coffee break)*
*Allow more time for mountain bikes and cross bikes
Difficulty: Mostly flat with 1-km-long inclines of 3%, other short hill climbs of 4%
Start Point: Imabari City, Ehime Prefecture, Shikoku
Route: Imabari Train Station – Itoyama Park – Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge – Island Explorer Route – Seaside Village – Return on Island Explorer Route – Yoshiumi Iki Iki Kan – Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge – Imabari Station
JR Imabari Train Station, 2022
Start from JR Imabari Station in Ehime Prefecture and ride north toward the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge. (Remember to keep left on roads with car traffic!) Before you start on the bridge, however, there’s a small rest area that I recommend for its view of the bridge and the hot lemonade from the food stand and the shio-bataa dorayaki (salty-butter flapjack sandwich with red bean paste filling) from the souvenir shop.
Salt-butter dorayaki, 2024
To get there, watch for the intersection of the cycling route with the main road (open to car traffic) and follow the road away from the bridge and uphill through a short tunnel. Emerging on the other side, you’ll find Itoyama Park with its amazing overlook and cozy shop on your right.
Itoyama Park and Overlook as seen from the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, 2024
Back on the Shimanami Kaido official course, you’ll cross the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, which is actually 3 consecutive bridges and, at 4 kilometers in length, is the longest stretch of over-water cycling on the route. This brings you to Oshima (O Island). To be perfectly honest, the portion of the Shimanami Kaido that I enjoyed the least was the official inland route that bisected Oshima, which was a long (over a kilometer in length) incline of 5% with nothing but boring trees to look at. (Gimme ocean views any day!)
Oshima coastal road west, 2024
That is why I recommend turning west after descending from the bridge and following the seaside Island Explorer Route (another blue line along the road) north. After passing a shipbuilder (and if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to watch them lifting huge sections of ships high in the air – so cool), you’ll see the Yoshiumi Bara Koen (Yoshiumi Rose Garden) on your left. (No, the roses won’t be in bloom in December or January, but it’s not a bad place to stretch your legs.) If you keep going and keep an eye on the left side of the road, you just might happen upon a charmingly eclectic cafe of penguin love (Cafe Shozan) that’s worth a visit, plus there’s a neighboring sandwich shop which may be open outside of the end-of-year holidays.
View from Cafe Shozan, 2024
The route remains flat and scenic for a few more kilometers, but once you pass the small village (and its centrally-located post office) the road turns inland with a challenging hill climb. I was not in the mood to challenge it, so I turned back at the village and began my return trip.
Oshima shipbuilders at work, 2024
Along the southern coast of Oshima, there’s a roadside market called the Yoshiumi Iki Iki Kan where you can choose from a selection of seafood creatures in burbling tanks and grill them up yourself. If that’s not your thing, then try the restaurant on the opposite end of the building. Their teishoku (Japanese-style lunch sets) are very satisfying – and tasty! – after a couple hours of cycling in the brisk winter wind.
Bicycle parking at the Yoshiumi Iki Iki Kan, 2022
From there, it’s a short trip back up to the bridge and you’re likely to find yourself back at Imabari Train Station within the hour.
A word of warning: the communities along the Shimanami Kaido are not as cashless-friendly as Tokyo or Osaka, so bring plenty of cash with you. Some places may accept credit cards or digital payment (like PayPay), but don’t count on it! If you are strapped for cash, make sure to visit a convenience store ATM (Lawson, FamilyMart, and 7-11 are the most common) in Onomichi or Imabari before you set out.
Between the deep blue sea and pockets of fall colors still clinging to the trees and sudden groves of squat citrus trees, you’ll not only end your day feeling accomplished but also renewed and refreshed as only a day spent out-of-doors can manage.
View of Tatara Bridge from a citrus grove on Ikuchijima, 2024
About Keri Yazawa
Keri Yazawa, a resident of Kanazawa City since 2005, guides bicycle tours specializing in good food, quirky history, local craft making, and gorgeous landscapes.
Article photos and written content © 2025 Keri Yazawa. All rights reserved.
