KANAZAWA

Maruoka Castle: Japan’s Oldest Hidden Castle in Fukui Prefecture

Castles. Castles everywhere! You’re never too far from a castle or fortress wherever you are in Japan. Those quintessential whitewashed walls and grey, tiled roofs with fishtail flourishes swishing skyward from the outer edges of the peaks – yup, that’s a Japanese castle all right. And chances are high that it’s going to be packed with visitors. Luckily, there are hidden gems where you can go for the intimate and rewarding experience you’re hoping for.

I’ve been to a few castles in Japan and my personal favorite is a charming three-story turret called Maruoka Castle. It’s located in Fukui Prefecture, which is one of Japan’s least-visited areas. This is great news for travelers as you’re that much less likely to have to wait in line or slog your way through a sea of humanity.

Maruoka Castle was built in 1576, making it one of the oldest castle towers in the country, especially when you consider that 70% of the structure is composed of original building materials. Yes. Seventy percent. Why is this amazing? For two reasons. First of all, most Japanese castles are made of wood, which makes them susceptible to fires. And since castles are most effective when located on hilltops and slopes, this also makes them prone to lightning strikes. Maruoka Castle perches on top of a singular hill in the middle of a flat plain and yet no lightning strike or tumbled brazier has ever managed to engulf it in flames. Not in 450 years.

The second amazing facet of Maraoka Castle isn’t its age, but the indomitable spirit of the people who make their homes at its base. In 1948, while all of Japan was struggling to make ends meet following the end of the Second World War, a devastating earthquake hit Maruoka. The castle was completely demolished. Most people would shrug their shoulders, clear the site, and invite a land developer to move in. Not so here. In spite of their daily struggle to put their lives back together, the locals made the time and devoted the effort to sifting through the wreckage in order to salvage as many of the original timbers and stones as possible. It was meticulous, backbreaking work but, in my humble opinion, absolutely worth it. A brief explanation is presented in a small exhibit inside the Maruoka Castle visitor’s center.

The visitor’s center itself is a gorgeous, modern facility of wood, glass, and light. Its design was clearly inspired by the turret that sits atop the hill beside it.

But don’t spend all your time in the cafe or the souvenir store. Walk up the winding trail to the summit and up the centuries-old steps to the castle itself. Inside you’ll find delightfully creaky boards (Had the samurai stationed here ever wondered who would be walking in their footsteps, treading upon these very same boards, over four hundred years later?) and a painstakingly built miniature of what this castle town once looked like way back then.

Maruoka has only three rooms, each stacked on top of the other, and if you want to explore them, you absolutely must bring along your sense of adventure! To reach the second and third floors, you’ll have to brave extremely steep stairs. Keep a tight grip on the rope as you go up and down.

The climb is worth it, though. From the top floor – the watchtower level – peer through the open shutters at the landscape stretching out before you. Generations have enjoyed this view, the same as you. Even now the windows are left open to the air without any glass to insulate you from the wind and world beyond.

Although the castle has changed hands again and again over its long lifetime, it has endured where many other castles have not. In fact, it has survived for so long that the local people of 1948 were determined that it would endure even longer.

The town streets around the castle are worth a quick visit, too. Kings Eight Diner serves towering burgers Japanese style (pay close attention to the order of its layers and you’ll see what I mean). For sure you won’t be served a hamburger that looks anything like this in the United States. Just a bit further down the street is a doughnut shop called Donut Hole. Pick up one of their signature custard-filled doughnuts for comparison with the ones you can get back home. You won’t be disappointed.  

About Keri Yazawa

Keri Yazawa, a resident of Kanazawa City since 2005, guides bicycle tours specializing in good food, quirky history, local craft making, and gorgeous landscapes.

Article photos and written content © 2025 Keri Yazawa. All rights reserved.

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