Traveling Through Noto’s Recovery: Wakura Onsen and Notojima Guide

On the first day of 2024, a devastating earthquake hit a remote peninsula near Kanazawa City. Even now, two years after the fact, recovery is still in progress. They’ve come a long way and the people who call the area home are rebuilding. While the roads to some areas are still too perilous to be easily navigated, the train from Kanazawa Station will take you to one hard-hit town: Wakura Onsen.

Wakura Onsen was a famous hot spring resort town. So famous, in fact, that it was almost impossible to book a room less than three months in advance. These days, it’s a town split down the middle. Majestic hotels stand next to buckled sidewalks and footbridges.

Visitors are warmly welcomed, though, and you’re likely to find a small restaurant with something on the menu that’ll hit the spot. But if you only have time to see  or do one thing in Wakura Onsen, I recommend a small but impressive museum.

The Who-What-When-Where-Why-How of Japanese Festivals

Wakura Onsen Festival Hall where you can get up close with some of Japan’s most impressive floats without the bothersome crowds and obnoxious mosquitoes.

In addition to showcasing the area’s long-standing traditions, there are explanations for just about every aspect of each festival, which is amazing because it’s a rare thing for traditions to be so openly discussed in this country.

As you wander through the museum, let your curiosity take the helm. Why do the men in the festival wear different colored jackets? What do the crests that are displayed on each float mean? What’s the deal with the long-nosed red-faced mask? All of this (and more) is explained with just enough detail to make you think “Cool!” instead of “I need a cup of coffee.”

If you add this stop to your itinerary, bring along a guide because only the titles of the exhibits have English translations.

Ready for an Adventure?

Once you’re sure that you absolutely cannot think of any more questions (or at least none that the museum can answer), hop in a taxi and take a drive across the bridge to Notojima, or Noto Island.

If you’re interested in doing something active, then this is the place to go. I took a bicycle tour around the northern shore and my guide was a local man who didn’t just tell me charming local trivia, but also described what lingering effects from the 2024 New Year’s Day earthquake are still felt by the people here.

Breathtaking ocean views, like this one which shows the alpine mountain range all the way across the ocean in neighboring Toyama Prefecture, offer glimpses of quintessential Japan: snow-capped mountains and blue sea.

While you’re a stone’s throw away from the sea, go ahead and take a SUP tour. SUP, or standing upright paddling, is arguably more popular than kayaking here. It’s offered by several outdoor sports companies that I know of, but why SUP in a sheltered cove or a river when you have the chance to share the waves with dolphins? That’s right. It’s not unheard of for wild dolphins to pop up along the shores of Noto Island.

One of the island’s most popular landbound attractions is the Notojima Glass Art Museum.

As an avid fan of the original Star Wars, I love wandering through the gigantic ball-shaped structure (seen in the above photo, on the left) because, depending on my mood, I can imagine I’m either scanning for imperial TIE Fighters from the gunner’s seat of the Millenium Falcon or surveying a conquered solar system from the emperor’s throne room.

Actually, what I really want to recommend is across the street from the museum: the Notojima Glass Studio. If you’re feeling creative, sign up for a class. They have four to choose from. You can make an actual drinking glass like these short tumblers in their glassblowing workshop.

Select your item from a variety of glass products (such as vases and wind chimes). Pick a color. Opt for “bubbles” or no. The final result will have to be completed by a professional glass artisan, which will take time. Your completed masterpiece will be shipped to you when it’s ready.

The jewelry-making class will let you create your own glass pendant or pair of earrings. Like the previous workshop, you’ll have to let the experts finish the process. If you want something to take home with you the same day, reserve a glass-painting or sandblasting workshop. Regardless of whether or not you’re a crafter, brace yourself from the absolutely wonderful works for sale in their shop. There’s a good chance you’ll find that perfect, one-of-a-kind, handmade gift you’ve been searching for.

Recovery is a long, slow process. In an earthquake-prone country like Japan, people have learned how to preserve. Visiting places like Wakura Onsen and Noto Island and seeing the strength of the people’s determination is, frankly, one of the most inspiring experiences I’ve ever had.

About Keri Yazawa

Keri Yazawa, a resident of Kanazawa City since 2005, guides bicycle tours specializing in good food, quirky history, local craft making, and gorgeous landscapes.

Article photos and written content © 2025 Keri Yazawa. All rights reserved.