Zenko-ji: Explore One of Japan’s Oldest & Most Important Buddhist Temples

Established in 642, Zenko-ji is one of Japan’s oldest and most important Buddhist temples. The main hall of the temple is said to enshrine the first known statue of the Buddha brought to Japan, now hidden from view for the rest of human history. The story of the statue and the temple built in dedication to it, is entwined with that of Nagano City and Japan itself. Zenko-ji is a registered National Treasure and one of central Japan’s most important cultural destinations – an ideal temple at which to explore the refined beauty and intricacies of Japanese Buddhism without the crowds of Kyoto.

 ©Peter Carnell

A 20-minute walk from Nagano Station, Zenko-ji is without question the spiritual and cultural heart of the city. Nagano grew out from and around the temple, and to this day, you’ll encounter sub-temples, “shukubo” (temple lodgings), traditional merchant buildings, craft stores and eateries that reflect the significance and history of the temple as the focal point of the city. Nagano is in every sense, a temple town.

 ©Peter Carnell

In addition to its mantle as one of Japan’s oldest and most important temples, Zenko-ji also lays claim to being the third largest wooden temple in the country – Todai-ji in Nara being the largest followed by Sanjusangendo in Kyoto – and non-denominational. Two Buddhist sects are responsible for the temple and perform its daily functions yet Zenko-ji itself is non-aligned. It belongs to no one or otherwise said, it belongs to everyone. The openness of the temple is reflected in the performance of the “O-Asaji” (Morning Service) at sunrise on every day of the year. Anyone is welcome to attend regardless of their faith or background, as Zenko-ji and its “Secret Buddha” hidden within guide us toward our own enlightenment.

Visitors to Nagano and Zenko-ji should consider combining their visit to nearby Togakushi. Part of the wider Myoko Togakushi Renzan National Park, Togakushi is home to some of Japan’s most important Shinto shrines. Five main shrines make up the complex, set within the lush forest of the national park and connected by a series of trails – the “Togakushi Kodo” – which lead to the “Okusha” or “Upper Shrine” and trailhead to the sacred peak of Mount Togakushi. Readily accessible from Nagano City, Togakushi offers visitors forest and alpine hiking, traditional guesthouses, local food and craft and in winter, outstanding skiing and snowboarding at one of Nagano’s most scenic resorts. Historically complex, naturally beautiful and always intriguing, Togakushi is one of the region’s most rewarding destinations.

When to Visit

Zenko-ji is open to the public every day of the year. The temple complex is accessible any time of day however the buildings are typically open from an hour before the “O-Asaji” – the service is held between 5:30 and 7:00 depending on the season – until 16:00 to 16:30. Though the temples themselves are not closed at night, you can still walk through the complex when the structures and brooding statues cast long shadows against the darkened sky, allowing for fantastic photography.

©Peter Carnell

The temple maintains a busy calendar of events through each season with spring being particularly popular due to the annual cherry blossoms – usually blooming in the first or second week of April – and autumn colours – typically sometime in November.

Summer in Japan is hot, including in Nagano, so should you visit Zenko-ji at that time, it is best to do so in the morning. Winter brings cold and snow to the temple with the period either side of New Year being extremely crowded as Japanese flock to Zenko-ji given its significance and auspiciousness.

How to Get There

Nagano Station is a stop on the Hokuriku Shinkansen running from Tokyo to Kanazawa and onto Fukui and Tsuruga. All services from Tokyo stop at Nagano – taking 80 to 110 minutes depending on the service you choose – making it quick and easy to get to. Once at Nagano Station, Zenko-ji is a pleasant 20-minute walk or 5-minute drive.

This article was written by Peter Carnell

About Peter Carnell

Peter Carnell is a freelance tour guide, writer and podcaster based in northern Nagano. Peter specializes in guiding in Nagano and surrounding prefectures which make up Central Japan, while also hosting the bi-weekly “Outland Japan” podcast – a podcast about travel, life and culture in regional, rural and the wilds of Japan. Peter’s guiding, writing and entire approach to Japan is underpinned by his academic background, having studied a Bachelor of Archaeology in the United Kingdom and a Master of Cultural Heritage and Museum Studies in Australia.

©Peter Carnell