Crack Open Kanazawa: Exploring Local Brews in Japan

©Keri Yazawa

You’ve heard of saké –Japanese rice wine – but what do you know about Japanese beer? Its history in Japan may not stretch as far back as that of saké, but the Japanese have not only embraced the beverage but put their own spin on it. Less “wheaty” than typical American beers and with a range of bitterness that starts at mellow and ends in sharp, Japanese beers are intended to gently fizzle on the tongue before fading into a crisp, clean finish. Properly served beer will always be chilled and will normally arrive with a 1-inch thick froth of bubbles on top. No, no, you’re not being cheated out of a full mug – the Japanese consider the head to be the equivalent of “the cherry on top” and no beer experience is satisfying without it.

While dining on yakitori (skewers of chicken) or okonomiyaki (which are something like large cabbage-and-meat flapjacks), commonly served Japanese draft beer is a great choice. However, if you’re curious as to what creative Japanese breweries have come up with, veer toward establishments that offer craft beer and give your taste buds a little holiday of their own!

Just about every major city in Japan has at least one craft beer brewery, but Kanazawa City has three: Oriental Brewery, Kanazawa Brewery, and Hyakumangoku.

©Keri Yazawa

Oriental Brewery serves its own product on tap at three locations in Kanazawa: the East Teahouse District, Kanazawa JR Station (2F), and in Crossgate (near Kanazawa JR Station West Exit). Order their “beer flight” to sample four of their most popular varieties: Citra, Yuzu Ale, UNITE, and Tea Stout. For pale ale fans, Citra is a definite crowd pleaser. It’s light and tart with the slight bitterness you’d expect from a pale ale. The Yuzu Ale is made with Japanese yuzu (a kind of citrus fruit) but goes down smooth and easy. UNITE will answer your craving for a nicely balanced IPA. The flavorful Tea Stout, made with locally roasted tea, is on the soft side while still offering the tiniest bite of sourness that you’d get from that last sip of Darjeeling.

オリエンタルブルーイング (Oriental Brewery)
Website: https://orientalbrewing.com/
Google Maps Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZWzzQnkra82KS4FM7

Oriental Brewing provides dining options as well. My personal favorite is their fish and chips, which will quite possibly ruin you for all others.

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Their savory deep fried chicken is made with locally produced soy sauce and the deep fried slices of lotus root (renkon, in Japanese) are extremely tasty. Or, avoid the deep fryer entirely and order a Napoli-style pizza, which is far less heavy and with about half the calories of a standard delivery pizza.

Next up: Kanazawa Brewery, which also offers a range of craft beers. Bar and restaurant Mugibatake (which translates to “wheat field”), serves five of Kanazawa Brewery’s current creations on tap. The beer sampler includes three of their most popular beers: pale ale, weizen, and dry stout. Or, for a little bit more, choose your own sampler set.

イタリア酒場 麦畑 (Italian Bar Mugibatake)
Google Maps Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/CjTyKJkqwV5eahut8

©Keri Yazawa

As I’m already a big fan of their dry stout, I decided to reacquaint myself with their pale ale, weizen, and limited edition German malt pale ale. With Kanazawa Brewery’s pale ale, you can expect a light citrus and wheat aroma and a mellow citrus flavor with a somewhat long finish. On the whole – very easy to drink. I enjoyed the weizen tremendously; it’s juicy and reminiscent of pear without being overpoweringly sweet. Pair it with a cheese dish for maximum enjoyment. The German malt is heavier on the wheat but smooth with low bitterness, juicy without being fruity. This one lingers satisfyingly long on the palate.

Mugibatake’s menu offers everything from their signature steak plate, which ranges in sizes to accommodate the appetite, typical fried beer snacks (I’m rather partial to the white chicken, cheese, and pickled plum spring rolls), fresh salads, and Spanish ajillo. For dessert, the creamy milk ice cream in a splash of dry stout (not unlike affocato) is a fun combination to finish your meal with.

©Keri Yazawa

All in all, Kanazawa Brewery creations are excellent for anyone who isn’t quite ready to veer beyond the flavors found in popular mainstream beers. Enjoyable to drink, they’re a great way to dip your toe into the vast waters of craft beer.

If you’re interested in trying some of the more exotic flavors, there is one more place in town where you can enjoy craft beer on tap. At the Johana Beer Stand in Kanazawa’s bustling Omicho Market, you have the option of trying up to six different craft beers on the spot and purchasing even more varieties in cans. Made in Toyama Prefecture (Kanazawa’s northern neighbor), Johana Brewing offers some pretty daring flavors in addition to the standard lager and stout.

Sampler sets of four beers – choose either a fruity or roasted assortment – come with a bag of smoked nuts. On this particular day, I chose the fruity sampler set, found myself a spot at the counter, and dove in. The Gold Rain Lager actually struck me as more of an IPA upon first sip due to its bitterness, but turned wheaty with a long finish. Next, the dark Hakama Ale sizzled a bit on the tongue with an interesting combination of smooth and bitter (like a Hazy IPA but without the creaminess). I was surprised to find myself enjoying the alarmingly green Great Blue, which is made with lemon juice but I detected more of a lime flavor. It was remarkably creamy, both the beer and the bubbles. Finally, the Tropical Pink, which delighted me with its floral aroma, danced on the tongue like a carbonated beverage in a medley of grapefruit and rose.

©Keri Yazawa

I purchased cans of their La France and Earl Grey beers to take home with me and found both to be fun to drink. The La France was light and juicy, like a combination of pear and white wine, and the Earl Grey was uniquely sweet with the expected bergamot. No, Johana craft beers are not your usual, run-of-the-mill draft beers, but if you’re feeling adventurous, you will absolutely enjoy them.

Beer from Kanazawa’s third craft brewery, Hyakumangoku, is harder to find on tap, but its products are available for purchase in department stores. Each beer, from black-label Dark Ale to orange-label Koshihikari Ale (made with premium rice) to blue-label IPA to green-label Pale Ale, pair excellently with Japanese food.

©Keri Yazawa

Check out the basement of Daiwa Department Store or the Crossgate complex near Kanazawa JR Station to pick up a few cans to either keep in your hotel room fridge or enjoy on the train ride to your next destination.

This article was written by Keri Yazawa

About Keri Yazawa
Keri Yazawa has been a resident of Kanazawa City since 2005 and enjoys cycling, stamp-making, and tofu!

©Keri Yazawa