Forest Shrines of Togakushi: Hiking the Trails of Myoko Togakushi Renzan National Park

Part of the wider Myoko Togakushi Renzan National Park, the alpine village Togakushi is home to some of Japan’s most important Shinto shrines. Five main shrines make-up the overall complex of which three, known as the ‘Sanjusangen-do’ are the most important. The ‘Hokosha’ or ‘Lower Shrine’ marks the beginning of the complex, followed by the ‘Chusha’ or ‘Middle Shrine’ and finally the ‘Okusha’ or ‘Upper Shrine’. Set within the dense forests of the national park and below the jagged ridgeline of Mount Togakushi, this is one of Japan’s most impressive mixed natural / cultural landscapes.

A 40-minute drive from Nagano Station, Togakushi is readily accessible yet in every other sense is a world away from the hassle and hum of the cities. The mountain itself has been a focal point of devotion for at least 1000 years – and likely, much longer – with pilgrimage trails known as the “Togakushi Kodo” linking the famous shrines to Zenko-ji in Nagano City – one of Japan’s oldest and most important Buddhist temples. Each of the temples is connected via leisurely hiking trails through the forest with more serious mountaineering trails leading into the mountains above. Linked to the creation myths of Japan itself, Togakushi and its forest shrines are the ideal location in which to explore the principles and history of Shintoism and the Japanese tradition of mountain worship.

©Peter Carnell 

The importance of Togakushi shrines means there’s no shortage of accommodation in the area including traditional “shukubo” (temple/shrine lodgings), “ryokan” (traditional guesthouses) and converted “kominka” (farmhouses). Among them, AWAI is a Kizuna favorite. Located in the central village, AWAI delivers a modern menu based on local food tradition including “sansai” (mountain vegetables), “soba” (buckwheat), river fish and game meat, while also catering to vegetarian, vegan and other requirements. Complementing this is AWAI’s accommodation including their refined conversion of a traditional “kominka” (farmhouse) in the lower village – ideally-suited to guests wanting privacy and an escape from the neon and buzz of Tokyo and the big cities.

©Peter Carnell 

Togakushi continues to fly under the radar for international tourism, but don’t expect that to last for long. The ease of access to the village and surrounding national park, combined with its cultural importance, natural beauty, thriving food culture, local craft including “takezaiku” (bamboo weaving) and winter activities including skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing make Togakushi one of Central Japan’s most rewarding destinations. One you are sure to hear more about in the coming years.

©Peter Carnell 

When to Visit

Togakushi is an all-year-round destination with each season offering its own reason to visit. The shrines are accessible throughout the year. Visitors wanting to hike the trails between them should however schedule their visit for June to November. Togakushi experiences heavy snow each winter and from December until early or mid-May, the trails are likely to be inaccessible. Some shrines are accessible by car and can still be visited in winter, with snowshoeing tours also available to more distant shrines and areas of the national park.

©Peter Carnell 

Spring and summer – that’s April to September – are particularly pleasant as Togakushi’s daytime temperature is regularly 7°C to 10°C below that of cities including Tokyo and without the humidity most of the country experiences. Autumn – October to November – is spectacular as the forest is awash with color. Known as “koyo” in Japanese, the autumn colors of Togakushi are famous, making it the busiest time of year. Winter brings deep cold – as daytime temperatures rarely go about 0°C / 32°F while overnight can drop to -15°C / 5°F and below – and the area experiences regular heavy snowfall. Home to one of Nagano’s most picturesque yet least known ski resorts, snowshoeing courses and rare beauty, Togakushi is as captivating in winter as it is in spring, summer and autumn.

How to Get There

Nagano Station is a stop on the Hokuriku Shinkansen running from Tokyo to Kanazawa and onto Fukui and Tsuruga. All services from Tokyo stop at Nagano – taking 80 to 110 minutes depending on the service you choose – making it quick and easy to get to. Once at Nagano Station, Togakushi is a 40 to 50-minute drive away by private car.

This article was written by Peter Carnell

About Peter Carnell

Peter Carnell is a freelance tour guide, writer and podcaster based in northern Nagano. Peter specializes in guiding in Nagano and surrounding prefectures which make up Central Japan, while also hosting the bi-weekly “Outland Japan” podcast – a podcast about travel, life and culture in regional, rural and the wilds of Japan. Peter’s guiding, writing and entire approach to Japan is underpinned by his academic background, having studied a Bachelor of Archaeology in the United Kingdom and a Master of Cultural Heritage and Museum Studies in Australia.

©Peter Carnell