A Taste of Europe in Japan: A Kanazawa Dining Guide

We all know the saying “When in Rome…” so it makes perfect sense to fill your Japan itinerary with Japanese food. But, if this is your first trip to Japan and your experiences with Japanese cuisine have been limited to the eateries available in your home country, perhaps the saying “Less is more” will be more satisfying. It’s hard to believe, but a surprising number of visitors are more than ready for a break from Japanese food by Day Three of their trip.

If you find yourself in Kanazawa City after the novelty of Japanese food has worn off, you’re in luck. The seaside city of Kanazawa is famous for more than just spectacular sushi. Speaking as someone who has lived and traveled in Japan for over 20 years, I can assure you that the quality of the food, especially at small restaurants that have been in business for decades, is unmatched! What’s more, the Japanese have their own take on foreign cuisine that you’ll find refreshing indeed.

In the mood for French? Cured ham and Pâté de Campagne, perhaps? Or how about a leg of duck roasted alongside a pork sausage on a bed of savory white beans? Might you prefer mussels steamed in white wine or escargot with a bowl of French onion soup? Among Kanazawa’s many French restaurants, Le Mars is my absolute favorite and also one of the least pretentious. 
Le Mars: https://g.co/kgs/qeP3x62

Just one block away from the thoroughfare that bisects Kanazawa’s downtown area, its red-painted walls, which are crowded with postcards, illustrations, and even sheet music of French tunes (not to mention the Old World accordian music and warbled lyrics crooning in the background), give Le Mars a cozy atmosphere to match the tasty home cooking of its experienced chef.

The portions are well-sized and every meal is preceded by an appetite-whetting nibble of olive-eggplant-and-mushroom paste on bruschetta. Homemade bread comes with your order, too. If I’m dining alone, I rarely have room to make it past my favorite vegetable sampler plate and an order of either pâté or cured ham. All the better to save room for dessert!

Le Mars is one of the very few restaurants in town to offer an extensive menu of my ultimate weakness: Belgium beer. The wine list is nothing to scoff at, either.

Onward to my second recommendation: family owned and operated La Mola. Given that the Japanese have a wide range of recipes for squid, it should be no surprise that they have embraced pasta nero, or pasta with squid ink. And La Mola is the absolute best place to enjoy it. Large pieces of thick bacon, dollops of stewed tomatoes and, of course, chewy squid tentacles are La Mola’s signature ingredients, cutting no corners in the creation of a dish that is an absolute must-try!

La Mola:https://g.co/kgs/pgbmave

A short local train ride out into the suburban area beyond the usual sightseeing spots of Kanazawa (plus a 10-minute walk) will bring you to La Mola. It’s open for both lunch and dinner, but come at lunchtime on a weekday to get a plate of lush, green salad and a glass (or cup) of your preferred soft drink (juice, tea, or coffee) included with your main dish.

La Mola also makes an impressive paella for two. Choose from the quintessential seafood paella or be a bit more daring and opt for pork or even squid ink paella. Whatever you choose, you will have zero regrets. Just be sure to bring your appetite. The portion sizes are very generous.

Last but not least, we have Italian food. 

You’ve likely noticed (from the proliferation of ramen) that the Japanese adore noodles. This, naturally, extends to pasta. However, unlike ramen which is often served in very thick, salty soup broths, most Italian restaurants take a more simplistic approach. Rather than smothering the pasta, sauces serve to enhance their flavor, making Japanese-made Italian cuisine a much lighter experience than your taste buds are probably used to.

The only issue is that portions tend to be small. Beautifully presented, yes, but small. However, Zelko Bar offers comfortably-sized portions. Several lunch options are on the menu, but make a reservation for dinner if you want to order my personal favorite: gorgonzola cheese penne. 

Zelko Bar:https://g.co/kgs/tEUf7r7

Zelko’s husband-and-wife team is amazing – not only certified chef but also sommelier, which is great news if you’re like me and get a thrill out of pairing a different wine with each dish. There’s always two or three bottles of both Italian white and red wines available by the glass at dinnertime. Beer lovers will find one of Japan’s mellowest and most drinkable drafts (made by Sapporo) on tap and, of course, there’s the dessert and coffee menu!

The Japanese love French, Spanish, and Italian cuisine, so wherever you go, reservations are recommended. Many of the restaurants that offer the most authentic and delicious recipes are family-run with handwritten, seasonal menus. But don’t let that frustrating language barrier limit your dining options – the Japanese-speaking staff here at Kizuna are happy to assist you with arranging the most satisfying dining experience during your stay in Japan.

About Keri Yazawa

Keri Yazawa, a resident of Kanazawa City since 2005, guides bicycle tours specializing in good food, quirky history, local craft making, and gorgeous landscapes.

Article photos and written content © 2025 Keri Yazawa. All rights reserved.