Kanazawa Breakfast Guide: Early-Opening Cafes for Travelers

Breakfast in Japan can be a challenge. Why? Well, unfortunately, the Japanese aren’t really into eating breakfast out. (Even a Denny’s breakfast here packs a culture-shocking punch. It’s just that different from what you’d expect.) Most hotels offer breakfast to guests, but for those with a sense of adventure, take the plunge and hit the streets in search of your morning sustenance!

A good Kanazawa breakfast can be had if you know where to look. Here are three Kanazawa breakfast cafes that offer tasty meals and are open before 9 o’clock in the morning.

To Old-style Pub or to Skateboard Ramp?

In the Tatemachi area, between the D. T. Suzuki Museum and the Sai River, is Espresso Bar Kesaran Pasaran. Upon entering, you can’t miss the long, wooden bar that runs the length of the dining space. The stools and books and other knickknacks give the cafe just a hint of that oldtimey pub atmosphere, which is in sharp contrast to the loft space above where you’ll sit in the company of white walls, modern art, shelves made from unfinished skateboards, and even a stainless steel skateboard ramp that serves as the back wall.

Order your espresso coffee black or white – there’s a helpful board behind the bar that explains your options nicely. I went with a magic coffee, which is a double shot of double-strength espresso with steamed, textured milk. Phenomenal.

The menu lists hot sandwiches and also croissants with savory toppings. As for my order, well, it’d been a while since I’d had eggs Benedict! Plus, the accompanying fresh greens and mini tomatoes added just enough color to convince me that I was eating healthily. I need not have worried about the richness of the Hollandaise sauce, though. It was slightly lighter than I’d expected. Since portions tend to be on the small side in Japan, I also opted for their signature cheese cake which is rather like a tangy cheese mousse on a crumble crust.

To Grandma’s House We Go!

If you’re looking for a place with a more authentic Japanese vibe, try a back-in-the-day cafe called “isotope”. It’s a quick jog across the street from the samurai house neighborhood (or, Bukeyashiki in Nagamachi). Sit at the counter by the big front windows or wait for a table to open up in the back. The advantage of the counter, besides the natural light, is you’ll be able to get a sense of what a Japanese grandma’s house was like about 50 years ago. You’ll also have an uninterrupted view of the team cooking in the kitchen.

“isotope” offers desserts and baked goods as well as two savory breakfast options. There’s either the soup or the morning plate to choose from. I went with the morning plate and enjoyed slices of roast pork, an egg sunny side up, steamed cauliflower, sauteed greens, a ratatouille-style blend of beans and lotus root flavored with a paprika-like spice, a small dollop of mozzarella cheese alongside half a large cherry tomato, plus a hearty slice of grilled rye toast.

“isotope” mainly offers espresso or Americano drinks for coffee lovers, plus some lattes. There are quite a few tea options, including herbal teas, as well. In lieu of pancakes, which are not on the menu, I selected a seasonal apple and ginger millefouille cake. The layers of crepe and whipped cream were incredibly fresh and satisfying. Oh, and the scoop of ice cream was pretty good, too!

People-watching or Basement Lurking…

Yet another unique breakfast experience is offered by a little place called “6 Apartment Coffee”, located a 10-minute walk from Kanazawa JR Station. The creators of this cafe have taken a stripped down “basement space” and turned it into a cozy 2-and-a-half story nook. Seats are available just inside the big picture window or out on the sidewalk if you want to people-watch, or you can elect to go downstairs and cuddle up in the trendy basement space.

Stacked cinderblock steps lead up to the cash register and bakery case, where you can get cookies or scones if that’s what you’re in the mood for. I thought I’d try their cortado coffee as it came highly recommended, and I was delighted by its slightly nutty flavor.

I was also curious to see what their Avocado Bagel Toast was all about and I was not disappointed! This semi-large, chewy, plain bagel is topped with a mellow cream cheese sauce, fresh avocado paste, walnuts and a sprinkling of spice. As you can see, a knife and fork are provided… but where’s the fun in that? The cheese cake was almost pudding-like in texture, but with the tiniest bit of zing to make you slow down and savor every bite.

There’s also a hot rye sandwich on the menu, but the granola Greek yogurt seems popular, so if you’ve got your heart set on that, you’d better get there before it sells out.

No, the Japanese haven’t quite gotten into the spirit of Waffle House or Denny’s (yet), but if you know where to look, you’ll be able to find a fantastic meal to start your day.

About Keri Yazawa

Keri Yazawa, a resident of Kanazawa City since 2005, guides bicycle tours specializing in good food, quirky history, local craft making, and gorgeous landscapes.

Article photos and written content © 2025 Keri Yazawa. All rights reserved.