SPRING
Kusatsu Onsen & the Shiga Kusatsu Kogen Route: Take the Road Less Travelled into Japan’s Volcanic Heartland
Disembarking their Shinkansen (Bullet Train) service from Tokyo, visitors to Karuizawa are immediately struck by its notably cooler climate. Sitting around 1,000m / 3,300ft above sea level and on the edge of Joshinetsu Kogen National Park, Karuizawa has long been a popular destination for Tokyoites seeking a mountain escape from the heat and humidity of summer. Though its history goes back much further, the town became popular in the 19th Century as wealthy Japanese and Western diplomats established second homes, and moving into the 20th Century Karuizwa increasingly attracted prominent persons including writers and artists who made it their home.
©Peter Carnell
Only 70 minutes by train from Tokyo, Karuizawa offers visitors an excellent range of accommodation, restaurants, galleries, shopping and outdoor activities on the fringe of Japan’s fourth largest national park. As such, it is the ideal starting point from where to head into Joshinetsu Kogen and Japan’s volcanic heartland, starting with one of the country’s most active volcanoes – Mount Asama. Standing 2,568m / 8,425ft, Asama “Tenmei Eruption” of 1783, led to the formation of a lava and debris field – referred to today as “Onioshidashi Volcanic Park”, which surrounds the looming mountain. Perched among the boulders, the Buddhist temple of Kannon-do is a constant reminder of the violent potential of the mountain, dedicated to those who lost their lives 250 years ago.
©Peter Carnell
Moving on from Asama and further into the national park, we recommend heading onto the mountain hot spring town of Kusatsu Onsen. Considered one of Japan’s three great medicinal onsens, Kusatsu Onsen is fed by another volcano – Mount Kusatsu-Shirane. Ranging from 51°C to 91°C / 124°F to 192°F in temperature, the water is channelled via the center of town through timber channels of the “Yubatake” or “Hot Water Field”, cooling it before being dispersed to the many surrounding guesthouses. It is an impressive , highly-photogenic sight and one that is sure to be a lasting memory from your time in Japan.
©Peter Carnell
Boasting a wide array of hot spring accommodation, Kusatsu Onsen makes for an ideal overnight stop before continuing your journey the following day by driving the Shiga Kusatsu Kogen Route. Ascending immediately from the town, the route takes you along the flanks and through sulphur fields of Mount Kusatsu-Shirane, before passing nearby its caldera. Heading onto Mount Yokoteyama, at 2,172m / 7,125ft this is the highest National Highway in Japan. The drive itself is the highlight while also opening the option of walking leisurely nature trails or more intensive hikes through the national park and overlaying UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
©Peter Carnell
Descending down from the mountains of the national park, you will arrive in the Yamanouchi area of Nagano Prefecture, allowing you to connect this journey with other recommended destinations including Zenko-ji Temple and Togakushi – both within an hours drive. Alternatively, Iiyama Station – 30 minutes drive – and Nagano Station – 60 drive – are both stops on the Hokuriku Shinkansen line, allowing you to continue your journey north onto Kanazawa or return to Tokyo after your time spent in Japan’s volcanic heartland.
When to Visit
Karuizawa and Kusatsu Onsen are accessible all year round with each season offering its own reasons to visit. From escaping the heat and humidity of the coastal cities in summer, to the colours of autumn and deep cold and snow of winter, before the blossoms bloom again each spring, Karuizawa and Kusatsu are worth visiting any time of year. So too is nearby Mount Asama. The Shiga Kusatsu Kogen Route is however closed through winter due to heavy snow and only driveable from mid-June to mid-November. We recommend combining these destinations – Karuizawa, Mount Asama, Kusatsu Kogen and Joshinetsu Kogen National Park via the Shiga Kusatsu Kogen Route – as a two or three day trip, staying overnight in Karuizawa or Kusatsu Onsen. Given that the route is closed through winter, we recommend timing your visit from between June and November.
How to Get There
Karuizawa is readily accessible using the Hokuriku Shikansen from Tokyo. Most services stop at Karuizawa, typically taking around 70 minutes. Once at Karuizawa, you will need a private vehicle to follow the above itinerary. Mount Asama is approximately 25 minutes drive from Karuizawa, while Kusatsu Onsen is another 40 minutes drive. Starting from Kusatsu Onsen, the Shiga Kusatsu Kogen Route takes approximately 70 minutes to drive without stopping, however we recommend stopping along the way, to enjoy the national park. The length of that drive will therefore vary depending on your included activities.
About Peter Carnell
Peter Carnell is a freelance tour guide, writer and podcaster based in northern Nagano. Peter specializes in guiding in Nagano and surrounding prefectures which make up Central Japan, while also hosting the bi-weekly “Outland Japan” podcast – a podcast about travel, life and culture in regional, rural and the wilds of Japan. Peter’s guiding, writing and entire approach to Japan is underpinned by his academic background, having studied a Bachelor of Archaeology in the United Kingdom and a Master of Cultural Heritage and Museum Studies in Australia.
©Peter Carnell
